The Tournure (Bustle Support)

Friday 5th April

The evil T word I not only have NO idea how to pronounce, but keep forgetting how to spell as well =P

The word 'tournure' is French for bustle (in this case);"Any device used by women to expand the skirt of a dress below the waist" It also means Turn; contour; figure.

I'm using the pattern TV 163 1887 Imperial Tournure from Truly Victorian. 

The pattern calls for two packs of extra wide double fold bias tape, but because Australia doesn't have a wide range of bias tape available to buy, I decided to make my own (plus, how wide is extra wide supposed to be?).
Seeing as I'm using 11mm boning, I needed my bias to be slightly bigger than that. I have the Simplicity bias maker, trust me.. it beats sitting there with the iron yourself for 7 meters of bias tape!! So I used the 19mm thingo.
I made my bias tape using this tutorial, using the vintage loop method. It's far easier than sitting there and trying to attach all the little bits perfectly together, you just need to be able to cut them perfectly straight instead.

Bias tape in progress.

Sunday 7th April

 So now I have my bias tape finished, and my tournure cut out, and sewn up to the boning stage....I can't do much more until the boning arrives. Booo!!! =[

I'm going to go and trace my corset and petticoat patterns...after I watch Dr Who =P hehehe

Tuesday 25th May

I finished this a while ago (aprox 20th April) however I didn't have the images to add to this to show the prgress. now I do =D

The side of the tounure bunches where the wire stops, I think this is due to the fabric I used. I plan on addin a strip of bias tape to cover that seam just to ensure that over time the wire doen't poke through. But the tape will also cover the wrinkles so you won't see them =D Solves two problems in one =D 

I also NEVER plan on pleating that much again! But I think it was worth it. Took me DAYS literally, to pleat just those strips to go on the bottom of the tounure.....I then set it ith water/vingar to ensure that the pleats will never come out...ever...lol.

Cat trap!! While applying the bias tape to hold the boning the Missy cat decided she would help =p

And back home my Sophie has decided it's now her tunnel =P

Cost in $au

$15        Pattern cost (not including shipping)

$22.40   Fabric cost (2.25x$9.95)

$20        Steel boning (including shipping)

$19.95   Cotton fringe trim (1x$19.95)

$3         Self made bias tape (0.5x$6)

Total=$80.35

Introduction to the dress

Just thought I would start this blog to keep a record of my 1887 bustle dress. And guess what! It's blue!! (and black) Sadly not, Tardis blue.. but give me enough time.. and I shall have one of those too..and a Clara dress replica <3 *nerd much*

This blog will cover the process from undergarments all the way to the outer garments, including a hat and overcoat if I have time. They won't be made in order from undergarments to outer garments though. They will be made as I find the perfect fabric and lace/trims for them. I have the intention of including little tidbits of historical information on each post, along with progress pictures and what I learnt from each project/pattern.

The undergarments included are: (will be linked as I make them)
The chemise and drawers, or possibly combinations (as combinations were more popular during this era)
The corset (maybe a corset cover)
The tournure (bustle support)
The petticoat
The underskirt
The overskirt
The bodice

If I have time:
Overcoat
Hat

Godeys January 1887

My dress will be based off the dress on the right, stripes included. I will list with images the fabric I intend to use, or might use, in the next post. But as a teaser, I found this GORGEOUS black, blue, metallic taffeta fabric on sale a few months ago and instantly thought BUSTLE DRESS!!! I had been waiting for the next 'Bustle Day Dress Class" with http://historicalsewing.com/ to open up, and just had to buy the fabric! I have been sewing for many years, but I wanted to enroll into Jennifer's class to learn more on historical techniques as I made my first ever bustle dress.

It took me ages to decide on the design I wanted. I knew I wanted the false vest look; something very fitted, almost uniform like. That meant some time from the late 1880s. I like big bustles and I cannot lie! (although now that I have been talking to the other ladies in the class, I wouldn't mind trying my hand at a pretty pink, VERY girly 1870s dress as well....)
Then I saw that image and it struck me as THE perfect design base. It displayed that stripes were very in at that time, and almost matched the design I saw in my head completely. Now off to spend all my money at Truly Victorian on patterns!!