Saturday, April 6, 2013

The Tournure (Bustle Support)


Friday 5th April
The evil T word I not only have NO idea how to pronounce, but keep forgetting how to spell as well =P
The word 'tournure' is French for bustle (in this case);"Any device used by women to expand the skirt of a dress below the waist" It also means Turn; contour; figure.



1887 Imperial Tournure

The pattern calls for two packs of extra wide double fold bias tape, but because Australia doesn't have a wide range of bias tape available to buy, I decided to make my own (plus, how wide is extra wide supposed to be?).
Seeing as I'm using 11mm boning, I needed my bias to be slightly bigger than that. I have the Simplicity bias maker, trust me.. it beats sitting there with the iron yourself for 7 meters of bias tape!! So I used the 19mm thingo.
I made my bias tape using this tutorial, using the vintage loop method. It's far easier than sitting there and trying to attach all the little bits perfectly together, you just need to be able to cut them perfectly straight instead.

Bias tape in progress.



Sunday 7th April
 So now I have my bias tape finished, and my tournure cut out, and sewn up to the boning stage....I can't do much more until the boning arrives. Booo!!! =[

I'm going to go and trace my corset and petticoat patterns...after I watch Dr Who =P hehehe

Tuesday 25th May
I finished this a while ago (aprox 20th April) however I didn't have the images to add to this to show the prgress. now I do =D
The side of the tounure bunches where the wire stops, I think this is due to the fabric I used. I plan on addin a strip of bias tape to cover that seam just to ensure that over time the wire doen't poke through. But the tape will also cover the wrinkles so you won't see them =D Solves two problems in one =D 
I also NEVER plan on pleating that much again! But I think it was worth it. Took me DAYS literally, to pleat just those strips to go on the bottom of the tounure.....I then set it ith water/vingar to ensure that the pleats will never come out...ever...lol.


Cat trap!! While applying the bias tape to hold the boning the Missy cat decided she would help =p

And back home my Sophie has decided it's now her tunnel =P



Cost in $au
$15        Pattern cost (not including shipping)
$22.40   Fabric cost (2.25x$9.95)
$20        Steel boning (including shipping)
$19.95   Cotton fringe trim (1x$19.95)
$3         Self made bias tape (0.5x$6)


Total=$80.35

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