Thursday, May 2, 2013

The Corset

The corset took me much longer than it should have with two cats vying for my attention and constantly sitting on my work and chair and me! Lol. I also had TAFE work to complete and hand in, I'm sure you all know the lovely end of semester rush =P

So! Without furthere adu, here are the corset specs.

The pattern http://www.etsy.com/listing/98061146/ref-v-black-royal-worcester-style99-12x2?ref=shop_home_active
Atlier Sylphe on Etsy sells some amazing antique corset patterns amongst her own magnificent work, one of which I own =P







I am learning two new things on this corset. To cord and to insert gores. Although I did run out of cord for my mockup so only half of it is corded lol. However this allows me to see how the cording effects the shape and appearance of the corset.

My mockup is made from two layers of calico (Americans call it muslin) with one of them being fused/interfaced. It is supposed to have a busk, however I'm house sitting and forgot to bring a busk with me, so I sewed the centre front together and boned it, it does the same job, just makes it more difficult to get into lol.









As you can see, the bust needs to be raised a little for modesty. The corset hips are a little too big, as they close fully at the back, and this also causes the stomach area of the corset to jut out.
The corded side buckles a little more at the waist than the non corded side, I think I'll add a spiral bone there when I fix up some of these issues for the next mockup. I'm also going to add a little to the back bust as there's a bit of a gap there at the lacing.
All in all, for a pattern that's over 100 years old, I think the fit on a modern body is just amazing! I'm quite lucky that the historical corsets measurements were very close to my own.

As I'm quite behind on the bustle class (most students are up to fitting the bodice, and the videos are only online for another month) I'm going to use this corset to fit the dress, and play around with the finery details of the corset fit after the dress is almost complete. Because the corset fits so well now, it won't alter the fit of the bodice very much when I change these minor details.

Progress pictures (mostly of the cats sitting on it =^^= )













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